Amaryllis with no flower!
- Thread starter Aldaniti
- Start date
Sheikh
At the Start
Where have you got it, they don't like the cold.
Merlin the Magician
At the Start
When growth resumes, some amaryllis bulbs
produce foliage, but no flowers. Amaryllis
that fail to bloom may not have been able to
store adequate food reserves in their bulbs
in spring and summer. Others may not have
been exposed to the proper temperatures
(50° to 55°F for 8 to 10 weeks).
[FONT=arial,sans-serif]Page 2[/FONT]
maryllis are popular flowering bulbs grown
indoors during the winter months. Their spectacular,
trumpet-shaped blooms can be 8 to 10 inches
across. Flower colors include red, pink, orange,
salmon, white, and bicolors. Two to six flowers
(the average is four) are produced atop an 18- to
36-inch-tall flower stalk.
Amaryllis offer an excellent, hands-on learning
opportunity for children to plant and watch grow.
The bulbs are very large, easy to handle and plant,
and begin to grow soon after planting. Bulbs potted
in early November should be in bloom by the
middle to end of December.
Although their flowers resemble lilies, the amaryllis
belongs to the Amaryllidaceae family. Its genus is
Hippeastrum. Amaryllis are native to tropical and
subtropical areas of the Americas, thus are tender
perennials and grown as houseplants. Both the bulb
and the plant are poisonous.
Forcing Amaryllis
Amaryllis bulbs can be purchased pre-planted in
pots or unpotted. When purchasing amaryllis,
select large, solid bulbs that show no sign of
shriveling or decay. The largest bulbs often produce
2 flower stalks. Single-flowering, double-flowering,
and miniature amaryllis varieties are available.
When planting an amaryllis bulb, select a pot
that is approximately 1 to 2 inches wider than the
diameter of the bulb. The container
may be clay, ceramic, or plastic,
but should have drainage holes
in the bottom. Plant the
bulb in good, well-drained
potting soil. Add a small
amount of potting soil
in the bottom of the pot.
Center the bulb atop the
soil in the middle
of the pot. Then
add additional
potting soil, firming
it around the roots
and bulb.
When finished potting, the upper one-half of the
bulb should remain above the soil surface. Also
leave about one inch between the soil surface
and the pot’s rim. Water the soil thoroughly with
lukewarm water and place in a warm (70° to 75°F)
location.
Check the pot before watering a pre-planted
amaryllis bulb. If the container doesn’t have
drainage holes, remove the bulb. Drill small holes
in the bottom of the container and replant or
transfer the bulb to a pot with drainage holes.
After the initial watering, allow the soil to dry
somewhat before watering again. Keep the soil
moist, but not wet. Don’t overwater; once per week
is usually adequate.
When growth appears, move the plant to a sunny
window and apply a water-soluble fertilizer every
2 to 4 weeks. During flower stalk elongation, turn
the pot each day to keep the flower stalk growing
straight. Flower stalks that lean badly may need
staking.
Flowering usually occurs about 6 to 8 weeks after
potting. When the amaryllis begins to bloom, move
the plant to a slightly cooler (65° to 70°F) location
that doesn’t receive direct sun to prolong the life of
the flowers.
Care After Flowering
After the flowers fade, use a sharp knife to cut off
the flower stalk about one to two inches above the
bulb. Be careful not to damage the strap-like foliage.
In order for the bulb to bloom again, the plant
must replenish its depleted food reserves. The
leaves manufacture food for storage in the bulb.
Place the plant in a sunny window and water when
the soil surface is nearly dry. Fertilize every 2 to
4 weeks with a houseplant fertilizer.
The amaryllis can be moved outdoors in late May
or early June. Harden or acclimate the plant to the
outdoors by placing it in a shady, protected area
for 2 to 3 days then gradually expose it to a few
hours of direct sun. Once hardened, select a site in
partial to full sun. Dig a hole and set the pot into
the ground. Outdoors, continue to water the plant
during dry weather. Also, continue to fertilize the
amaryllis once or twice a month with a complete
analysis soluble plant food through July. Bring the
plant indoors in mid-September. Plants left indoors
should be kept in a sunny window.
Reflowering of Amaryllis
In order to bloom, amaryllis bulbs must be exposed
to temperatures of 50° to 55°F for a minimum of
8 to 10 weeks. This can be accomplished by
inducing the plant to go dormant and then storing
the dormant bulb at a temperature of 50° to 55°F.
To induce dormancy, place the plant in a cool,
semi-dark location in late September and withhold
water. Cut off the foliage when the leaves turn brown.
Then place the dormant bulb in a dark, cool (50° to
55°F) location for at least 8 to 10 weeks.
After the cool requirement has been met, start the
growth cycle again by repotting the bulb in fresh
soil, watering, and placing it in a well-lit, 70° to
75°F location. Keep the potting soil moist, but not
wet, until growth appears.
Another option is to place the plant in a well-lit,
50° to 55°F location in fall. Maintain the amaryllis
as a green plant from fall to early to mid-winter.
After the cool requirement has been met, move the
plant to a warmer (70° to 75°F) location.
A
produce foliage, but no flowers. Amaryllis
that fail to bloom may not have been able to
store adequate food reserves in their bulbs
in spring and summer. Others may not have
been exposed to the proper temperatures
(50° to 55°F for 8 to 10 weeks).
[FONT=arial,sans-serif]Page 2[/FONT]
maryllis are popular flowering bulbs grown
indoors during the winter months. Their spectacular,
trumpet-shaped blooms can be 8 to 10 inches
across. Flower colors include red, pink, orange,
salmon, white, and bicolors. Two to six flowers
(the average is four) are produced atop an 18- to
36-inch-tall flower stalk.
Amaryllis offer an excellent, hands-on learning
opportunity for children to plant and watch grow.
The bulbs are very large, easy to handle and plant,
and begin to grow soon after planting. Bulbs potted
in early November should be in bloom by the
middle to end of December.
Although their flowers resemble lilies, the amaryllis
belongs to the Amaryllidaceae family. Its genus is
Hippeastrum. Amaryllis are native to tropical and
subtropical areas of the Americas, thus are tender
perennials and grown as houseplants. Both the bulb
and the plant are poisonous.
Forcing Amaryllis
Amaryllis bulbs can be purchased pre-planted in
pots or unpotted. When purchasing amaryllis,
select large, solid bulbs that show no sign of
shriveling or decay. The largest bulbs often produce
2 flower stalks. Single-flowering, double-flowering,
and miniature amaryllis varieties are available.
When planting an amaryllis bulb, select a pot
that is approximately 1 to 2 inches wider than the
diameter of the bulb. The container
may be clay, ceramic, or plastic,
but should have drainage holes
in the bottom. Plant the
bulb in good, well-drained
potting soil. Add a small
amount of potting soil
in the bottom of the pot.
Center the bulb atop the
soil in the middle
of the pot. Then
add additional
potting soil, firming
it around the roots
and bulb.
When finished potting, the upper one-half of the
bulb should remain above the soil surface. Also
leave about one inch between the soil surface
and the pot’s rim. Water the soil thoroughly with
lukewarm water and place in a warm (70° to 75°F)
location.
Check the pot before watering a pre-planted
amaryllis bulb. If the container doesn’t have
drainage holes, remove the bulb. Drill small holes
in the bottom of the container and replant or
transfer the bulb to a pot with drainage holes.
After the initial watering, allow the soil to dry
somewhat before watering again. Keep the soil
moist, but not wet. Don’t overwater; once per week
is usually adequate.
When growth appears, move the plant to a sunny
window and apply a water-soluble fertilizer every
2 to 4 weeks. During flower stalk elongation, turn
the pot each day to keep the flower stalk growing
straight. Flower stalks that lean badly may need
staking.
Flowering usually occurs about 6 to 8 weeks after
potting. When the amaryllis begins to bloom, move
the plant to a slightly cooler (65° to 70°F) location
that doesn’t receive direct sun to prolong the life of
the flowers.
Care After Flowering
After the flowers fade, use a sharp knife to cut off
the flower stalk about one to two inches above the
bulb. Be careful not to damage the strap-like foliage.
In order for the bulb to bloom again, the plant
must replenish its depleted food reserves. The
leaves manufacture food for storage in the bulb.
Place the plant in a sunny window and water when
the soil surface is nearly dry. Fertilize every 2 to
4 weeks with a houseplant fertilizer.
The amaryllis can be moved outdoors in late May
or early June. Harden or acclimate the plant to the
outdoors by placing it in a shady, protected area
for 2 to 3 days then gradually expose it to a few
hours of direct sun. Once hardened, select a site in
partial to full sun. Dig a hole and set the pot into
the ground. Outdoors, continue to water the plant
during dry weather. Also, continue to fertilize the
amaryllis once or twice a month with a complete
analysis soluble plant food through July. Bring the
plant indoors in mid-September. Plants left indoors
should be kept in a sunny window.
Reflowering of Amaryllis
In order to bloom, amaryllis bulbs must be exposed
to temperatures of 50° to 55°F for a minimum of
8 to 10 weeks. This can be accomplished by
inducing the plant to go dormant and then storing
the dormant bulb at a temperature of 50° to 55°F.
To induce dormancy, place the plant in a cool,
semi-dark location in late September and withhold
water. Cut off the foliage when the leaves turn brown.
Then place the dormant bulb in a dark, cool (50° to
55°F) location for at least 8 to 10 weeks.
After the cool requirement has been met, start the
growth cycle again by repotting the bulb in fresh
soil, watering, and placing it in a well-lit, 70° to
75°F location. Keep the potting soil moist, but not
wet, until growth appears.
Another option is to place the plant in a well-lit,
50° to 55°F location in fall. Maintain the amaryllis
as a green plant from fall to early to mid-winter.
After the cool requirement has been met, move the
plant to a warmer (70° to 75°F) location.
A
Thanks to both of you, I only bought the bulb in Dec so don't know what happened to it before then, its kept on a sunny south facing windowsil (bedroom) & brought behind the curtains at night,
I will start to feed it & keep as a "Green" plant through the summer & do what it says in Merlins bit hopefully it will flower this winter coming
Thanks
I will start to feed it & keep as a "Green" plant through the summer & do what it says in Merlins bit hopefully it will flower this winter coming
Thanks