The Perfect Bolognese Sauce

Melendez

At the Start
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Everyone has their own recipe. I haven't cooked either of these yet, but I have tasted both dishes at his restaurantand they are the dog's boll...


Roberto Morsiani is a master chef from Bologna, the city that gave its name to the meat sauce that goes on spaghetti. Chances are, what you know in Ireland as 'spag bol' bears very little relation to the real thing. Bolognese sauce is a meat sauce with a touch of tomato, not a tomato sauce with some mince chucked in. Roberto's recipe below would feed from six to eight people. Allow about 150g of spaghetti or tagliatelle per person. You can taste Roberto's recipe at Janet's Coffee House in Dun Laoghaire, but only during the day.


Traditional Bolognese Sauce

Ingredients

500g of minced pork, loin or neck
800g minced lean beef
200g minced pancetta
100g diced Parma ham
150g cubed salsiccia (??? - Anyone know what this is)
250g finely chopped onion
150g finely chopped carrot
100g finely chopped celery
1 glass of red wine
300g of tomato paste
800cl of meat stock
salt and pepper
2 tablespoons of olive oil


Method

1. Use a heavy deep pan with a lid. Put 30g of olive in the pan and place on a high heat. Add the pancetta, stir continually with a wooden spoon and let it cook until crisp.

2. Take the pan from the heat and remove the pancetta, setting it aside. Put the pan back on the heat and add the onion, the carrot and the celery. Lower the heat and cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally. When the colour has deepened, add the chopped salsiccia. Stir and let the flavours mix for about 5 minutes, then add the minced pork. Stir well, then add the minced beef and at a high heat let the meats brown.

Purists can cook the minced beef and pork separately, then add them to the vegetables. The reason is that they will brown better on their own than they will when cooked with the vegetables. It's not vital, but it does improve the dish.

3. Once the meats have browned, add the cooked pancetta that you set aside, and add the glass of red wine. Let this evaporate, then add the tomato paste. Take care that the paste doesn't stick by stirring well.

4. After about 3-4 minutes add half of the meat stock, stir well and reduce the heat until the sauce barely simmers. Cover the pan, leaving a space for venting, and let the sauce reduce while it darkens and the flavours intensify. The longer this process takes, the better the sauce will be. Gradually add the rest of the stock, a little at a time, letting the sauce reduce between each addition. Add the diced Parma ham half an hour before the cooking is complete.

5. When the sauce is ready remove it from the heat, cover the pan with its lid, and let the sauce rest. The longer it rests, the more intense the flavours will be. The day after it's made it's at its best.

Janet's Coffee House and Deli, Upper Georges Street, Dun Laoghaire.
Tel. 01 663 6871.


And the Souffle ....

Roberto Morsiani is one of my favourite Italian chefs. A native of Bologna - Italy's gastronomic centre - he has had a long career in catering. Before moving to Ireland with his Irish wife, Janet, he had fourteen restaurants, one of them garnering a Michelin star. Roberto has decided that these days he wants a day job, so he and Janet now run the eponymous 'Janet's Coffee House' in Dun Laoghaire, which closes at 5 o'clock, leaving his evenings free.

He once cooked this cheese soufflé for me, and I loved it. Here's his recipe for 'Sformato di formaggio Grana', or Grana cheese soufflé. If you're feeling rich, you can make it with Parmesan.

for 10 soufflés
500 g grated grana Padano cheese
1/2 litre fresh cream
12 eggs
1 pinch grated nutmeg
1 pinch of fresh ground white pepper
salt
1 knob of butter

for the spinach bed
1 kg boiled spinach
40 g fresh cream
30 g. grated Parmigiano cheese
salt
2 spoons extra virgin olive oil

Grease the insides of 10 ramekins with a knob of butter and put aside.
Beat the eggs lightly with a pinch of nutmeg. Add the cheese and mix carefully to distribute the cheese evenly.

Add the cream and season with pepper. When it is well mixed fill the ramekins to two thirds of their height.

Put the ramekins into an oven tray. Fill the tray with water to half the ramekins height.

Cover with tin foil and put into a preheated oven 160 degrees centigrade for around 40 minutes.

After 30 minutes take off the tin foil and cook the last 10 minutes uncovered. This will help them brown slightly.

Meanwhile wash the spinach leaves well and boil them in a small amount of water with a drop of olive oil and a pinch of salt. When they are cooked, drain them well and squeeze them to eliminate as much water as possible.

Put the rest of the oil into a frying pan as soon as the oil is warm add the spinach. Fry lightly, add the Parmesan cheese and mix well. Add the cream at once and mix, tossing the spinach in the pan to absorb all the cream.

Spread the spinach out to cover the bottom of a starter plate.


Using a knife, ease the soufflé carefully out of the ramekin, moving the knife around the edges and pushing up from the bottom. Place the soufflé on top of the spinach and serve at once.
 
According to Anna del Conte in the Gastronomy of Italy it is made all over Italy . Salsiccia is simply " sausage " and the flavourings vary all over the place from chilli, fennel, white wine to garlic and liver.
 
I must admit that I´ve never tried it with carrots in ,but for me mushroms are essential and some people add corn in there which gives a nice texture to the dish.
 
Onion ,Carrot and celery are common as a base in Italian cooking especially in tomato sauce . I think that they are meant to be cut small to flavour the sauce rather than as a vegetable in their own right .
 
I've always understood 'proper' bolognese sauce had finely chopped carrots through it (and was made with lamb).

I do a mean bolognese if I may say so myself ;)
 
Lamb ?

The true name for Bolognese SAuce is Ragu . Elizabeth David suggests that beef, chicken livers and bacon , carrot , onion ,celery tomato and white wine are the correct ingredients .
 
This is gonna sound strange but I promise it works . Add 2 or 3 cubes of chocolate to the mix . It gives it a richness without you knowing the chocolate is there . It's common plactise to add Chocolate to Chilli in South America .Makes it creamy and gives it another dimension . Really good tip . You don't taste the chocolate .
 
You should also add a little sugar to take away the acidity from the tomotoes.
 
chicken in chocolate sauce is delicious - but the chocolate needs to be very dark. Made it for my doubting parents years ago and they loved it.
 
Driving through France with friends in 1969 (gosh, what a memory!), en route to Genoa, we stopped at a tiny place called Courtenay, some way outside Lyons. We stayed at an almost wild-West looking hotel called the Hotel du Cygne, where we ate the most marvellously indulgent hare in dark chocolate sauce.

I took photos of the shabby but interesting main street - the place looked the least likely to have such delights in store, and I wonder if anyone's been there since? I'd love to know if the little hotel's still there, or if the village has been, er, developed.
 
I can't say I've ever used carrots in bolognese - don't fancy it either!! The bolognese I make is always heavier on the mincemeat than the sauce - I tend to use tomato puree rather than chopped tomatoes as I'm not so keen on the sauce being too sloppy. Generally I just add onions to the mincemeat (sometimes mushrooms and peppers too) along with whatever odds & sods I have in the cupboard at the time - Lea & Perrin's sauce, celery salt, oregano, sometimes chili flakes, wine, garlic salt, soy sauce, Aromat - the list is endless & I just whack in whatever I feel like at the time!!!
 
I don't put all of that in - that's a selection of stuff I've whacked in there in the past!!!!! My taste isn't quite that bizarre...... :lol:
 
I'm definitely going to try a bit of chocolate in my next batch of bolognese. I'll let you know how it was. I presume that's instead of sugar? (I always add enough sugar to combat the acidity.

Chicken in dark chocolate... That sounds almost as tempting as Catherine Zeta Jones in dark chocolate :huh:
 
Sounds like the recipe for quite a large portion of sauce that Melendez. Will definately have a go at the sauce but will probably have to scale the quantities down.
 
Only add 3 cubes max Mo or else you'll taste the chocolate but it really does make a difference in moderation . Our cooker broke today . Bit of a saga . We had carpet fitters in who managed to cut a power cable :rolleyes: Had to re think tea . We were gonna have fish pie but had to do smoked cod and chips because the deep fat fryer was the only thing you could cook with . Found a really good batter recipe
4oz self raising flour
2tbs oil
pinch salt
150ml beer
1 large egg white whisked until meringue texture

Mix everything until smooth but leave egg white until last . Fold it in carefully . Perfect fish and chips . Never knew it was so easy B)
 
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